Monday, July 11, 2011

So long and thanks for all the fish...

It was my future-husband's birthday on Saturday, and after spending a week in bed with what I'm dubbing the "Summer plague of '11" he needed some major TLC. Fresh fish immediately sprung to mind for its health benefits and easily-digestible nature. I haven't been buying a lot of fish lately (thanks to the recent report I read on the state of the worlds' oceans) but when I do I make sure it is a) sustainable, b)as local as possible and c) fresh. Luckily I can rely on my butcher/fishmonger to sell me products that came from the most sustainable and local sources possible. That might not mean as much as I'd like it to, but what it DOES mean is that on David's birthday we ate quite possibly the best salmon I've ever tasted.



I knew at first sight that this salmon was going to be a winner; neon-pink and hardly any scent, it was obviously fresh fresh fresh. When it comes right down to it, I really only have two things to say about salmon: buy it fresh and DON'T OVERCOOK IT. I read a blog today where someone explained-away their salmon recipe that involved smothering it in sweet sauce in order to counter the "dense, chewy, not-that-tasty-on-its-own" salmon they were preparing. And then I read 20 people's comments about how great this recipe was and how it made them "finally like salmon." And all I wished is that I could be standing next to these people as they cooked their salmon so that when that salmon turned from translucent to just-opaque I could scream "TAKE IT OFF! IT'S DONE! DOOOOOOOOOON'T FLIP IT OVER, NOOOOOOOOOO"...etc. Because the only reason someone would ever think salmon was "dense, chewy or not-that-tasty-on-its-own" is if they cooked the absolute crap out of it. It also helps to use salmon that was caught within the past 24 hours. Salmon is not a fish I'd recommend to mid-Westerners buying their fish frozen. Go with a white fish, or better yet, something caught in a river or stream or pond that is located ANYWHERE in your general vicinity. It will taste better. Believe me.

The truth is overcooked salmon begins to taste like cat food. And in my opinion, trying to mask cat-food-like-salmon by drowning it in sauce or blasting it with flavored rubs is just as close to sinful as you can get with food. Which is why I practically NEVER order salmon in a restaurant. The real truth is that it just doesn't get any better than wonderfully fresh salmon simply cooked in the oven (or carefully on the grill...and no flipping!) with a little olive oil, lemon and salt and pepper. Cooked this way, and removed from the heat when it's flesh is just barely opaque, the salmon simply speaks for itself. Add whatever you like on the side, but keep it simple. Salmon makes a great summer meal because it pairs beautifully with the simplest, freshest ingredients.


Salmon with Chanterelles and Roasted Cherry Tomatoes

2 fresh salmon fillets
2 cups fresh chanterelle mushrooms, sliced
2 cups cherry tomatoes, in season, halved
1 or 2 spring onions, halved and thinly sliced
1 tsp lemon zest
2 TB butter
olive oil
chopped parsley
fennel or dill fronds for garnish
fresh-squeezed lemon, to serve

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Drizzle salmon fillets with olive oil, sprinkle with lemon zest, salt and pepper. (for fun I laid on some beautiful fennel fronds...you could do the same with fresh dill)



Toss cherry tomatoes with olive oil and salt. Roast in oven for about 30 min.



Meanwhile saute mushrooms and onion in butter on medium-low heat until onions are translucent/soft and mushrooms are slightly browned, anywhere from 10-20 minutes.



When tomatoes are slightly caramelized and just beginning to brown, remove from oven.



Toss tomatoes with the mushroom mixture. Add a big pinch of chopped parsley.



Cook salmon in oven for anywhere from 12-20 minutes, depending on your oven. I usually poke a corner of one my fillets to see if the inside is done. If the outer salmon is still translucent, give it a few more minutes. When the salmon is just barely opaque in the center and the outside is slightly firm (could be browned or not, depending on the circumstances) REMOVE FROM HEAT. If you notice a white substance secreting from the salmon, do not be alarmed: this is simply protein (called albumen) cooking out of the salmon and is not only thought to be good for you, but more importantly extremely tasty! I like to think of it as the 'fat.'



Let the salmon rest for a few minutes, drizzle with lemon juice, top with the mushroom/tomato mixture, and enjoy!



- Happy Eating -